A simple recipe for baba ghanoush with a twist

A desire to dig deeper into Lebanese cuisine is redefining Gerard’s Bistro in Brisbane.

Jill DupleixFood writer

Apr 26, 2024 – 5.00am

Subscribe to gift this article

Gift 5 articles to anyone you choose each month when you subscribe.

Already a subscriber?

As you enter Gerard’s Bistro in Brisbane, reach out to touch the massive rammed-earth columns that flank the entrance. For an instant, you could be worshipping at the Temple of Bacchus at Baalbek in Lebanon, instead of dining at one of Australia’s most fêted Middle Eastern restaurants.

It’s the temple’s ruins that inspired co-owner Johnny Moubarak’s brief to interior designer Jared Webb. The goal was to refresh Gerard’s after an 11-year run, and the result is remarkably timeless – light, fresh and textural, with concrete slabs softened by pale fabric and given an edge with stainless steel.

The fire-driven kitchen was given a similar brief – to dig deep into Lebanese heritage through its cuisine, simplifying and elevating the essential flavours. “I take the classics, but also give them a lift,” says executive chef Jimmy Richardson.

His homage to Lebanon and the Levant has led to swordfish teamed with mujadara lentils and tahini butter, and eggplants charred over coals for the signature baba ghanoush.

Jimmy Richardson of Gerard’s. David Chatfield

There’s a Persian influence too, such as the much-loved grilled Barbari flatbread. “I’ve been eating the food of my wife’s Persian family for 12 years now,” says Richardson. “They’ve given me so much insight.”

Richardson first trained in classic French techniques in his native Scotland, then with the Roux brothers in Amsterdam, and Philippe Mouchel in Melbourne.

“It means I know the tricks of the trade,” he says. “But now I’m putting them at the service of Lebanese cuisine.”

Gerard’s Bistro, 14/15 James Street, Fortitude Valley.

Gerard’s baba ghanoush

Degree of difficulty ★☆☆ | Serves 4 as a snack with flatbread

At Gerard’s, Richardson chars the eggplant over coals. At home, you can do this on a normal barbecue, sear in a lightly oiled pan, or roast the eggplant cut-side down in an oven until soft.

Ingredients

800g eggplant (e.g. two medium)
65g tahini paste (3 tbsp)
90g toum (garlic sauce)
2g cumin powder
25ml extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1 lemon (35ml)
1 tsp sea salt flakes
Half tsp ras el hanout or paprika

Method

Cut each eggplant in half and cross-hatch the flesh with a knife.

Place the eggplants, flesh-side down, directly on charcoal and cook until soft and blackened, then turn them skin-side down to cook all the way through.

After grilling, it’s best to let the eggplant rest and cool down, allowing the moisture to drain away.

When cooled, gently scrape the eggplant flesh off the charred skin.

Place it in a bowl and gently break it down in your hands by squeezing it. This gives a better, coarser texture than blitzing it in a mixer, which just purées it.

You should have about 400g of charred, skinned eggplant. Add the tahini paste, toum, cumin, olive oil, lemon juice and sea salt, mixing everything thoroughly.

Check for seasoning, dust with ras el hanout or paprika, and serve with grilled flatbread.

Tip: Richardson recommends Al Kanater tahini (sesame paste). Toum is a Lebanese garlic sauce – if you can’t find it, add 1 to 2 finely grated cloves of garlic.